Monday, December 31, 2012

Christmas & Birthday - In Zanzibar

Well....today I'm in Mwanza, on Lake Victoria (Africa's largest lake) and its my last day of fast internet for who knows how long, so I'm going to use today to share some photos with you.  (Just so you all know, whenever I post blog posts from Murgwanza aka WomenCraft, it takes me about 2-3 days.  I have to re-load the page, edit, or the internet just simply goes out and I lose everything. So...when you're thinking a blog post takes about 5 minutes to write and 30 seconds to post...know it doesn't :)

I just had a week plus of vacation, and went to one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen: Zanzibar.  To get there, Hilary & I took a 10 hour bus from Ngara to Mwanza, a 2 hour flight from Mwanza to Dar es Salaam, and then a 2 hour ferry to Zanzibar.  Total with hotel stays, cab rides, etc, it took us 2 full days of transit to get there.

Besides visiting the beaches and shopping, we did a couple of tours...one on Christmas, one the day after, and one on my birthday.  Christmas day we visited Prison Island, a 20 minute boat ride from Zanzibar, and mingled with giant tortoises and saw the prison where slaves were kept.  On the 26th, we went on a spice tour where we tasted herbs and fruits that the island produces, including cloves, black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, breadfruit, jackfruit, vanilla and lemongrass, and then visited the Magapwani caves and beach. On my birthday, we swam with dolphins and snorkeled in Kizimkazi, and then went on a jungle trek and saw monkeys in Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park.  A birthday to remember, without a doubt.  We lived it up, and with our limited budget did as much as we could.

Although Zanzibar was undeniably beautiful and a nice change of pace from Ngara town, it was also draining.  We were heckled non-stop by people trying to sell us anything they could on the streets, and the "just wait" (meaning don't be in a hurry...things will happen when they happen) attitude seemed to be exaggerated here in island time. So...if you plan a trip to Zanzibar in your future, be sure to bring your patience with you!  hahahaha.

Tonight we celebrate New Years here in Mwanza with my two other co-workers, Shannon & Geoffrey.  We have reservations at a Japanese restaurant that is situated on top of Lake Victoria.  Should be a pretty cool way to ring in the New Year!  I'll be limiting my champagne intake however...as our bus for Ngara LEAVES at 5am tomorrow.  Don't want to miss it!

Ok, well enjoy a couple of picks from my trip!  Oh, and I am very close to buying my return ticket home.  So...I will be sending you all an email soon to let you know when I'm returning!  Miss you all so much and wishing you a very Happy New Year!  Thanks for all the love and support - it means so much.


Obama supporters in a local cafe in Dar es Salaam

Dar es Salaam...from the ferry heading to Zanzibar

Stonetown, Zanzibar

Christmas Eve - Zanzibar/Stonetown




View from Prison Island (Zanzibar in background)

Ahoy matey!

Sunset from Stonetown - Christmas Day

Masaai Warriors on Christmas Day


Magapwani Beach





The market in Zanzibar

Market in Zanzibar



Friday, December 28, 2012

Spread 'Em! Christmas Cheer, That Is :)

Happy Holidays Everyone!

I'm going to make this short & sweet, since I'm on vacation...but I do FINALLY have semi high-speed internet, so I'm going to take this opportunity to upload some pics!

A few days before we left on vacation, I visited the Nazereti Street Boys Orphanage with a couple of my co-workers, and we donated toys to them as a Christmas gift.  I also brought them a very special toy that I had been given in India...given with the promise that I would give it to a child in Africa.  You launch it, and it flies through the air and lights up!  Very cool indeed.  It took me FOREVER to figure the thing out (as you can tell by the look on my face), but once I did, it was a hit.

I head back to the orphanage on Jan. 5th to teach them dance.  25 street boys...wish me luck!

Enjoy!  Love and miss you all, and wishing everyone nothing but wonderful happiness in the New Year!






Saturday, December 15, 2012

In Sickness & In Health

Illnesses run rampant in developing countries, and Tanzania is no exception to the rule. The business to be in for profit here locally without a doubt is funerals, and we hear of someone who's passed away or has been killed weekly. Ok, Ok...so people die weekly in the US too, I know, but it's different here. With limited or no access to medical resources (or money to meet that need), people simply deal with the cards they've been dealt until they can do no more. Malaria is the number one killer in Tanzania, but locally here in the past year or so there has been a new scary outbreak of Rabies which has caused several deaths...so I steer clear of the dogs in the streets. The HIV and AIDS epidemic also does not help, as a weakened immune system for many here locally means that there's an even slimmer chance that they'll recover from anything they may catch.

Have I gotten sick? You bet. It all started when I was in India. Jarrod & I both expected that I would get sick (not many people escape India without getting something apparently), but he helped me to do everything that I could to avoid it. I brushed my teeth using bottled water, washed my hands or used hand sanitizer before every meal, and tried to eat only at restaurants recommended by someone we knew or that were listed in a travel guide. It wasn't until my third week of travel that I caught anything at all.

We took many modes of transport while in India, but lucky for us this day we had randomly decided to take a car. Our taxi was going to drive us just a few short hours from Kovalum to Varkala (or “Barfkala as I aptly renamed it), a very popular tourist trap on the Western shore of India. We left shortly after lunch, and I started feeling nauseous immediately. Usually when I start feeling sick, I can calm my mind, concentrate and force myself to hold it together, but nothing was stopping this beast this time. I had already mentioned to Jarrod that I was feeling kind of off, but this time I turned to him in the backseat and calmly said “I think we might need to pull over”. He paused for a moment, and then interpreted my sentence into its correct meaning: “pull the f&!@ over now!” He asked our driver to do so, and we made it JUST in time for me lose my load out the side of the car, a sight for all to see. This continued every hour, on the hour, during the rest of our taxi drive and for the remainder of the day once we arrived. Every time I threw up, I prayed to God it was the last time. I'm fairly certain I've never been more violently ill in my life.

Having been so sick in India, I was confident that I would be in the clear in Africa...that it would be all out of my system. But, to no avail. My first week in Tanzania, all of us co-workers went out to a bar for some drinks and food, and to be a good sport (against my intuition), I tried the goat. Just one very small piece, but that was enough. I threw up all night long and since then, have been almost strictly vegetarian during my time here in Tanzania...and have yet to get sick again.

Everyone takes their turn, whether its vomiting, diarrhea or injuries. For example, my co-worker Linda sprained her ankle running in the hills here and was on crutches when I first arrived, and a few weeks ago Helena had a spark shoot out of her arm when lightening hit our office. Exciting stuff. And then, there's Shannon. A couple of weeks after I arrived here, my co-worker Shannon started noticing a bump on her foot. She thought that it was just a wart, but it kept growing and getting darker and darker by the day. She asked us what we thought it was, but no one knew. When conditions didn't improve, she finally went to see the doctor, and found out that a chigger had buried itself in her foot. She most likely got it out during one of our Route Week visits, and was criticized for wearing flip flops -not closed-toed shoes- in the mud. She had to have it dug out of her foot with a knife, and as bad as that sounds, it was even worse when they opened her up to find that it had started laying eggs in her skin...which also had to be dug out. Needless to say, for weeks we were all thoroughly examining our feet nightly, paranoid and nervous that we would share the same fate.

I, so far, have been very, very lucky. I get flea bites on a regular basis, but they are VERY minimal compared to those of several of my co-workers (some have huge rashes and scars covering their bodies from the severity of the bites). And only this week have I managed to injure myself. On Monday, I was carrying a huge duffle bag up the hill from our house to the office and I tweaked my hip. Not sure what I did, but it hurt like hell. Lucky for me, it repaired itself within a few days, and I was good as new...just in time for me to get tripped up in my mosquito net Thursday as I was exiting my bed, so that I could gracefully fall and face plant myself on the concrete floor of my bedroom. Good Morning Africa!

So...what am I doing to stay healthy? Well no matter how busy or lazy I feel, I make time to exercise. We go for hikes in the hills behind our house, or walk into town and back...which takes 40 minutes each way. Shannon leads yoga class once a week, and I do the same with hip hop. On top of that, Hilary has some pretty incredible work-out DVDs, so we get yoked with Jillian Michaels in the bedroom, using rocks from the hillside as weights. If solitary confinement in prison is anything like the isolation is out here in Murgwanza, I am confident that if I went to jail I would be like those inmates that do body building all the time, and would come out looking more ripped than I had been in 10 years!

In addition, I've been taking my malaria medication (which I hate). About half of my co-workers are not taking it, but I don't think its worth the risk...so I continue on. Also, I finally got my care package from my Dad this week, which contained lots of things to keep me healthy and sane. I don't think I've ever been so excited to see Flintstone Gummie Vitamins in my life!

And...then there's mental health. All of us “imports” out here do the best that we can with all of the tools in our belt to keep ourselves healthy and balanced, no matter what the day presents to us. We plan game nights together, special events (such as a Secret Santa exchange we had the other night – my idea, thank you very much), and most of all are just there to keep each other company. With the phones and internet working erratically and irregularly, it is very hard for all of us to communicate with our friends and family back home, so when someone reaches to the bottom of their barrel, we help to pick them back up. We remind each other why we're here, and what we're trying to accomplish, both personally and professionally, in the name of helping others.

This holiday season, my request is that you dig deep – into your heart, into your mind, or into your pockets if you prefer, to give something to someone else in need who truly needs it. Without the love, generosity and compassion of others, this life would be a lot more difficult for all of us. Try it - give just a little this Christmas season, and I think you'll be surprised to find how much/what you'll get back in return.

Sunday, December 9, 2012

“I Hate This Bus”


“I hate this bus” Hilary turns to me and says, 30 minutes into our bus ride from Kahama to Arusha. It's 6:30am and we've been up since 5. We still have 9-12 hours of transit to go...as long as the bus doesn't break down. I look over at Hilary as we both catch air and are launched off our seats for the hundredth time. Her coca-cola almost explodes all over her. The expression on her face is priceless. She is less than amused. I erupt in laughter.

These days, I'm finding it easier to laugh instead of get frustrated. A three hour excursion often turns into ten, and anything that you can imagine can – and will – go wrong. I've learned to accept that every day there will be major stressors thrown in my face and that things will not go as planned. And I've found ways to cope with things being so.

In Tanzania, there are no bathrooms on the buses. No surprise really there, but there also are no planned bathroom stops. Or bathroom announcements for that matter. So on a 9-12 hour bus ride, things can get really interesting. On our bus to Arusha, we were lucky enough to stop at a gas station/convenience store a few hours into our ride. We saw masses of people exiting the bus, so we figured it was safe to do the same. We successfully found some bathroom stalls (although here I really prefer to go outside in the open air. The bathrooms are often beyond mention here) and then made our way back to the bus.

“Anything else you want to do before we get on?” I said to Hilary.
“Yeah...I think I'll check out the convenience store. See what they have,” she said. (After being in Murgwanza for months, stores with things such as face wash and deodorant are exhilarating).

I decide to wait outside, stretch my legs, and get some fresh air. All of a sudden, our bus starts pulling away, and people start running to jump on. 4.5 million shillings worth of WomenCraft products are on that bus – not to mention all of our personal items – and I am responsible for it all.

I run towards the bus and turn around and yell “Hilary!” Lucky for me, she's right behind me – also on guard since we both didn't know when the bus would officially take off. As it pulls away I jump on, and pull Hilary up behind me. She's the last one to make it.

Relieved and at peace with having made it on board, we let out a deep sigh.

...and then the bus parks. About 20 feet away from where we made our daring leap.

Embarassed, confused and dumbfounded (why was everyone ELSE running? Does anyone know what's going on here??!!) we decide to stay on the bus and wait it out until its really time to leave. We watch our fellow passengers re-board with their truck stop purchases, and our bus now holds about 10 chickens more than it previously did...including one rooster seated directly behind me, beak at the ready to peck at my head.

Our business trip to Arusha was a roaring success. When we left WomenCraft with all our products, Shannon informed me that she was giving us four times the amount of products than they usually sell during a fair.

“We're going to sell it all” I told her. She chuckled, but appreciated my optimism.

But...we did. We sold all of the products we brought with us. Elated, we returned home empty handed with heads high.

But wait. Before I returned home, there was a Belgian dilemma in the mix... named Maxime Seleck.

When Maxime and Alix (his girlfriend) came to visit me in Eugene this Summer, he told me that he'd be working in the DRC again this Fall, and that if I was in Tanzania he'd love to come visit. It sounded like a great plan to me, but I didn't have any details about my trip, where I was living, or what my work situation/days off would be at that point. Maxime wrote me again while I was in India, saying that he had to purchase tickets and make a decision quick.

“Maxime, I'm sorry,” I said. “I am in India and have no idea what the rules are or what things are going to be like when I arrive in Ngara. I wish I could help more”.

At this point, I figured that Maxime had given up. But...when I arrived in Ngara and checked my email for the first time, I had a message in my inbox from him:

“Hey! So I booked my tickets. I arrive December 3rd. See you then!”

Now as I mentioned above, nothing goes as planned here. But if you know Maxime, you know that's right up his alley. “I've never planned before and it's seemed to work out quite well for me” he tells me confidently on the phone the day before he's expected to arrive in Murgwanza. And if you know me....I plan like nobody's business. Can you see where this is going?

Long story short, Maxime arrives in Murgwanza and I'm not there. Our transportation situation from Arusha to home gets complicated, and at the last minute it seems that Maxime and I are going to miss seeing each other by a matter of hours. After two days of waiting for me at WomenCraft, he has to leave and head North so that he can catch his flight out of Arusha on Monday. He came all the way to Tanzania to visit and I wasn't going to see him at all.

At the last minute, we decide that we can't let that happen. So...we make a plan. Maxime and I ask our drivers to cross paths in Lushunga - a small village between Murgwanza and Kahama- so that we can meet up. I'd planned on just saying hello and returning back to Murgwanza, exhausted after two straight weeks and weekends of work, but seeing him and feeling guilty for not being able to meet up, I decide to go with him. Work had given me permission to take a few days leave since I've been working so hard. And after all, Maxime assured me that he had a taxi already reserved to go to Mwanza, and that the same taxi could take me back to Ngara the following day.

10+ hours later...after traveling via taxi, bus, dhala dhala, and ferry...getting pelted by rain and heavy winds...we arrive in Mwanza long after dark. My dad happens to call me while we're on the bus – at night – in the middle of a lightening storm. “Hey...are you at a party or something?” my dad says, hearing the roar of the bus crowd. He's thrilled to learn of the situation (not), but isn't too surprised knowing the company I'm keeping.

Maxime and I passed a few great days in Mwanza (google it), taking loads of pictures of Lake Victoria (Africa's largest lake), catching up and enjoying yet another small break from African life. Two days later, I caught a bus back to Ngara and Maxime went on his way to Arusha. After getting my phone stolen (but luckily nailing the thief down and getting it back) and several marriage proposals, I was finally home. Familiar faces and places were very comforting.

I'll be working for the next two weeks and then we close WomenCraft for the holidays and I'm going on vacation. Where to? Well...you'll just have to stay tuned...

Sunday, December 2, 2012

Home Schaweet Home

I've had several requests from friends and family to see photos of where I live.  This includes my dad, who just looked at my blog for the first time a few days ago.

So Dad...you're welcome.  This one's for you.  My living situation is so much more posh than the average living arrangement in Ngara.  I feel very spoiled.  Enjoy a small glimpse into my day to day...
Our back porch

My backyard - looking out at Rwanda

Dining Room - Opposite of the Living Room

Living Room

Hiking in my Backyard

This our our internet router.  I get a small chuckle every time I press the  power  button and get this message...

The water for our house is heated by fire...when they remember to light it!

My bedroom

View from the bed

Our company jeep...that I got to drive one time so far...on the wrong side of the road, with the stick shift on the left hand side!  Safi!
The exterior of the WomenCraft Retreat House aka my home


Guard Station - just opposite our house